Just who created the fish boil?
The Door County fish boil is not just a meal, it's an event. Held in the open air over cedar-fed fires, massive cauldrons of bubbling salt water are filled to capacity with red-jacketed potatoes, luscious sweet pearl onions and freshly-caught fish from the local waters.
At the precise moment, the master boiler steps up and douses the cooking fire with diesel fuel. The erupting rush of engulfing flames sends the fish oils and cooking residue boiling up and over. Come and get it, everyone!
The fish boil's history is enmeshed with that of the county's early economic development. The Peninsula drew legions of lumberjacks and fishermen, anxious to capitalize on the abundant natural resources. Both of these groups are in position to claim bragging rights for the creation of the fish boil.
The mid-nineteenth century found lumberjacks hard at work clearing timber from the Peninsula's vast forests. With the requirement of lots of food, readily available, easily prepared by those not necessarily qualifying as gourmets, the lumberjacks would have had the opportunity and the resources to have taken the fish boil to heart.
Others believe today's fish boil is an outgrowth of the early fishing industry and the "Domer" cooked fish. Steam was the power that propelled the early fishing fleets. Out on the lakes, a fresh catch, stuffed with potatoes and onions, wrapped in layers of newspaper, would be set on the boiler, where it would steam in its own juices, providing a delicious feast. Back on land, the fishermen used the same concept of the steam boiler to cook larger quantities of fish.
Whether the lumberjack or the fisherman deserves our eternal gratitude for the fish boil, we'll probably never know. Nor does it really matter. For we do know who to thank for commercially bringing the boil to life in Door County, through hard work and major risk-taking that paid off big!
Following their purchase of the Viking Grill in Ellison Bay, Lawrence and Annette Wickman realized changes had to be made if it was to support their growing family. Though fish boils weren't unknown, they were staged for special occasions. No restaurant had ever offered them on a regular basis.
The Wickmans wondered, why not? And, in 1961, they set about changing the culinary landscape of Door County forever. New ownership has continued the tradition at The Viking, but today's fortunate visitors find many local restaurants offering fish boils every night of the week in-season.
Over the years little has changed from the Wickman's original concept. The event will be great fun. You'll enjoy a delicious meal no matter which restaurant you choose for sure. It's the beauty, the splendor of the peninsula -- that special Door County seasoning -- that lifts it from a meal to a memory.
